Public Lecture
Bordered and Bespoke: African, Asian, and European Entanglements in the Silk Objects of Walé Oyéjidé and Geoffrey Chaucer
Andrea Denny-Brown
University of Wisconsin - Madison
Elvehjem L140
3 October 2025, 5 pm
This talk will explore the entangled medieval histories offered by the silk textile collection of contemporary designer Walé Oyéjidé and his fashion label Ikiré Jones. Oyéjidé’s “Remastering the Old World” silk textile series creates an alternative history centered on combining medieval and renaissance European artworks with African prints and images of African royalty, in order to pose questions about the possibility of a “shared” fashion narrative that crosses national, racial, religious, and even temporal borders. Using Oyéjidé’s work as a guide, I will consider the storytelling legacies of the silk textiles in late medieval Europe. Geoffrey Chaucer’s Trojan romance Troilus and Criseyde, I argue, represents a moment when overtly exoticized silk fashions in crusader romances give way to more refined literary and visual citations based in an emerging perception of discerning European taste. Looking at this narrative through Oyéjidé’s vision, we can see one cultural mechanism by which past aesthetics came not to be shared.
Andrea Denny-Brown, Associate Professor of English at the University of California, Riverside, is a specialist in the poetry and material culture of the European Middle Ages. She is the author of Fashioning Change: The Trope of Clothing in High– and Late–Medieval England (2012) and the co-editor, with Lisa H. Cooper, of Lydgate Matters: Poetry and Material Culture in the Fifteenth Century (2008) and The Arma Christi in Medieval and Early Modern Material Culture (2014). She served as guest editor for a double issue of the journal Exemplaria on “The Provocative Fifteenth Century” (2017-18), and as editor of the same journal from 2018-2021. Her current book project, Criminal Ornament: Maligned Style & the Fifteenth Century, studies interdisciplinary techniques of ornament in late medieval verbal, visual, and decorative arts and the backlash against such ornament in the early twentieth century.
Co-Sponsored by the Anonymous Fund, English, the Nancy M. Bruce Center for Design and Material Culture, Art Department, ILS, European Studies, and the Department of Art History.
For more information, visit https://medievalstudies.wisc.edu/upcoming-events/